:root{--bg:#f8f7f3;--paper:#fffefa;--ink:#283b32;--muted:#70796e;--line:#dbded4;--accent:#496257;--band:#e5ebe2;--gold:#a58a55;--rust:#a96949;--shadow:0 16px 48px #23382b0c;color-scheme:light}html[data-theme=dark]{--bg:#1d2623;--paper:#25302a;--ink:#e5eadd;--muted:#acb7a8;--line:#405045;--accent:#b1c7b1;--band:#2b3d32;--gold:#d4ba82;--rust:#d3a68b;--shadow:0 16px 48px #0002;color-scheme:dark}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:25px}body{margin:0;color:var(--ink);background:var(--bg);font:15px/1.75 -apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',sans-serif}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button{font:inherit;color:inherit;cursor:pointer}button,a{touch-action:manipulation}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--gold);outline-offset:5px}button{background:none;border:0}h1,h2,h3,p{margin-top:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:Georgia,'Times New 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@media(min-width:1400px){.shell{width:1320px}.hero{gap:80px}}
@media(max-width:1000px){.shell{padding:0 32px}.hero{gap:35px}h1{font-size:57px}.reading-layout{grid-template-columns:135px minmax(0,1fr);gap:30px}.desktop-nav{gap:18px}.trip-stats div+div{padding-left:15px}}
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@media(max-width:420px){h1{font-size:46px}.chapter-grid,.photo-pair,.place-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.route li{grid-template-columns:65px 20px 1fr;gap:10px}.route li:before{left:84px}.story-links a{font-size:12px}.trip-stats{gap:16px}.preview-strip{font-size:8px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}}
/* Real trip media: preserve full photos in the story, crop only cover previews. */
.header-actions{flex-shrink:0}
.editor-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:7px;min-height:40px;padding:0 14px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:24px;background:var(--paper);font-size:12px;line-height:1.2;white-space:nowrap}
.editor-link:hover{background:var(--band);border-color:var(--accent)}
@media(max-width:420px){.site-header{gap:8px}.site-header .brand{font-size:23px}.header-actions{gap:6px}.theme-button,.menu-button{width:34px;height:36px}.editor-link{min-height:36px;padding:0 10px;font-size:11px}.editor-link svg{display:none}}
.real-photo img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto;background:var(--band)}
.photo-open{display:block;border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden}
.photo-open:focus-visible{outline-offset:5px}
.hero .real-photo img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover}
.chapter-card .real-photo img{aspect-ratio:16/10;object-fit:cover;border-radius:3px}
.article section>.real-photo{max-width:100%}
.article section>.real-photo img{max-height:680px;object-fit:contain}
.photo-pair{align-items:start}
.photo-pair .real-photo img{max-height:500px;object-fit:contain}
.real-photo figcaption{line-height:1.6;font-size:11px}
.video-photo{max-width:460px;margin-inline:auto!important}
.video-photo video{display:block;width:100%;height:auto;max-height:720px;background:#18231e;border-radius:3px;aspect-ratio:9/16}
.video-description{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:10px 0 0}
@media(max-width:720px){.hero .real-photo img{aspect-ratio:4/3}.photo-pair{gap:24px 18px}.article section>.real-photo img{max-height:none}.video-photo video{max-height:75vh}}